Chitosekanㄩ A traditional Japaneseㄜstyle restauran in Yamagata City
In a previous article (published on 10/01/2024), we introduced “Hanak身ji,” a vibrant food and drink district in Yamagata City that retains a strong Showa Era atmosphere. This time, we’ll delve into the history of “Chitosekan,” a traditional Japanese-style restaurant that played a pivotal role in shaping Hanak身ji from its inception.
At the entrance to “Hanak身ji,” you’ll find a unique Western-style building. Constructed in 1915, this building served as a “ryotei,” a high-end Japanese restaurant, where business deals, banquets, and even secret political meetings were held. “Ryotei” have a history dating back to the Edo period, and for over two centuries, they’ve been an integral part of Japanese culture.
The building in Yamagata City is known as “Ryotei Chitosekan.” Although it’s no longer in operation as a restaurant, its architectural value was recognized and it was designated as a registered tangible cultural property by the Japanese government in 2002.
“Chitosekan” first opened its doors in 1876, shortly after the end of the Edo period, about 100 meters west of its current location. However, it was destroyed in a great fire that swept through Yamagata City in 1911. The building that stands today was constructed in 1915.
The architecture is quite distinctive. The western facade, facing the street, features a blue wall with a canopy for drop-offs, a typical Western design. On the eastern side, you’ll find a traditional Japanese garden with seasonal flowers and trees. It’s a rather unusual and visually striking combination.
When “Chitosekan” reopened after the fire, it began to lease plots of land to its employees and regular customers, who subsequently opened their own businesses. This marked the beginning of “Hanak身ji,” which eventually became Yamagata City’s premier entertainment district.
Until the 1930s, before the Pacific War, “Chitosekan” was incredibly popular, and together with “Hanak身ji,” it remained one of Yamagata City’s leading entertainment districts.
After the war, the building was requisitioned by the Allied Occupation Forces, known as GHQㄗGeneral Headquartersㄘ . However, it wasn’t all negative. GHQ and local Yamagata officials held sukiyaki(Japanese beef hot pot) parties there, including their families, making it a place for Japanese-American exchange. Operations resumed in 1948, and “Chitosekan” continued to be beloved by many for over a century. Due to its unique architecture, it was often used as a filming location for movies and dramas, and many famous stars have visited the premises.
Unfortunately, following the COVID-19 pandemic and declining patronage, this magnificent establishment closed its doors in 2021.
The building has since been donated to Yamagata City and will be preserved as an Important Cultural Property. It will be renovated into a hotel and restaurant by a private company and is scheduled to reopen in 2027.
Until construction begins, Yamagata City will continue to host an annual event during the autumn foliage season to allow people to appreciate the building’s history and beauty. This year, the event will be held on November 9th and 10th. Visitors can enjoy traditional performances, such as the “Yamagata Maiko” dance, and participate in kimono dressing and Japanese confectionery making workshops, offering a glimpse into the culture and traditions of Yamagata.
Why not visit this historic building, admire the beautiful autumn foliage, and take a trip back in time 100 years? Afterwards, you can explore “Hanak身ji” and savor the flavors of Yamagata’s culinary scene.
Event website:
