星空无限传媒

In the northeast of downtown Yamagata City, near the city hall, lies a nostalgic dining district called “Hanakoji.” Lured by neon lights, visitors are tempted to explore its over 40 diverse establishments, including izakayas, restaurants, bars, and snacks. Hanakoji boasts a history of over 100 years, having survived major changes through fires and wars to become what it is today.

The History of Hanakoji
After the Great Fire of Yamagata in 1911, the second generation owner of the restaurant “Chitosekan” established this entertainment district as a way to help rebuild and bring prosperity to the area. Various establishments sprang up, including restaurants, “machiai” where guests could enjoy geisha performances, and “okiya” that housed geisha. The area flourished as a “hanamachi” (a district with establishments where guests could enjoy geisha performances), with records indicating around 120 geisha in 1927. After the Second World War, it gradually transformed from a hanamachi into a dining district.

Modern Hanakoji
Over the years, establishments have adapted to changing times, evolving into snack bars, izakayas, sushi shops, and yakiniku places. During periods of low economic growth, the “Hanakoji Promotion Association” was formed to revive the area, fostering a collective effort to preserve its history and culture.

The Charm of Hanakoji
With over 40 dining options, Hanakoji offers a rich array of cuisines—Japanese, local dishes, meat, fish, bars, and snacks. Grab a Hanakoji MAP and choose a place based on your mood. This dining district has establishments that are close together, so it’s also recommended to hop between them.

Do you know what a “snack” is? It refers to small bars or evening social spots where unique female owners, called “mama,” host guests—this is a distinctly Japanese culture. Once vibrant and a staple in the Showa era (1926-1989), snacks are currently experiencing a revival as retro culture gains new appreciation. Part of their appeal lies in their “homely” and “retro” atmospheres. Many snacks are small fitting 10-15, allowing guests to enjoy conversations with the mama and regulars. Plus, karaoke! Many places offer all-you-can-sing options with food and drinks for around 3,000 to 4,000 yen, making it budget-friendly. Enjoy the cheerful atmosphere and connect across language barriers.

In addition to enjoying karaoke with drinks, the opportunity to immerse oneself in the “Showa retro” vibe has contributed to the renewed interest in snacks. Many maintain their nostalgic aesthetics, offering experiences of old music, decor, and cuisine.

Hanakoji’s greatest charm is that you can experience a snack-like atmosphere throughout the whole area. Even non-snack establishments are often small and conducive to conversations with the owner across the counter. The entire area cherishes its history and traditions, allowing visitors to catch hints of its hanamachi and Showa-era essence—an experience you won’t find in modern bars near the station.

I’ve heard a story about a young man from Tokyo who visited a izakaya of Hanakoji on the recommendation of a taxi driver. He was thrilled by the unique experience of chatting with the owner and regulars, making it a memorable experience to take back with him.

Enjoying delicious food and drinks while cherishing fleeting encounters and conversations is what makes Hanakoji unforgettable. Why not visit and discover your favorite spot?

In the next article, I will delve into “Chitosekan,” the ryotei that has played a central role in shaping Hanakoji from the start, as well as introduce an autumn festival. Stay tuned!